Aappo Törmänen


This repertoire of wearable items is inviting layers of violence into sartorial form; a corrupted repertoire forming from countless interrupted processes begging the questions concerning power’s deranged relation to the dress and desire.


Through clothes, I am producing an image of confused hierarchical characters — the doctors and his hysterics, puritans and perverts — by slightly manipulating the systematic vestiary semiotics. In the image, the bodies wearing the items are deprived from their autonomy and left only breathing; however, these bodies are not disciplined, but, rather, emancipated through control.


– My intention was to find intuitive ways of working and following my vivid internal visions. The collection’s conceptual framework was done throughout and after the material process, working from outside to inside. The meaning behind the sartorial repertoire I constructed was found through films, literature, and conversations with meaningful people around me, Törmänen explains.


Törmänen is endlessly fascinated by power and control. The idea of restraining the body through clothing can be seen as the main undertone of his work.


– The materials play a pivotal role in reminding both the wearer and the spectator of the violence that they hold. I became curious about materials that possess some sense of derangement, leather turning into one of the most substantial matters in my work. In addition, I contemplated a lot with the weight and the tactility of the material while constructing pieces from acrylic, bronze and horse hair for example, conflicting them with institutional, soft knits.


– The way I see it, the clothes we wear possess tremendous power over us. Clothing seems like a fascist tool to me to some extent; it perversely enchants to take control over us, to segregate and to manipulate. Clothes have the power to conceal and reveal, restrain and set free, humiliate and celebrate.

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