Developing new personalised patternmaking methods

The primary goal of Sini-Pilvi Kiilunen’s graduate collection was to develop a personalised patternmaking method. The emphasis was on an experimental process, facilitated by digital software, to test various patternmaking methods.

Utilising digital tools, Kiilunen developed a method that allowed her to blend traditional craftsmanship with modern technology. With CLO3D, she could design and visualise her creations in a virtual environment, enabling adjustments and alterations before bringing them to life. This uses less waste material in the design and prototyping process. The pattern drafting method also emphasises practicality. For instance, she creates patterns that are shaped small enough to utilise leftover materials effectively.

– My journey to develop a personalised patternmaking method began during my master’s studies, where I recognised the importance of having a strong foundation in patternmaking, Kiilunen says.

Central to Kiilunen’s method is the concept of transformation. She starts with block patterns, which serve as the foundation for her designs. These patterns are then drafted into curved pattern shapes. This method transforms the block patterns into dynamic, multi-layered designs.

– Experimenting with different pattern-making tools, such as the CLO3D, allowed me to refine my design methodology.

Kiilunen emphasises how the pattern serves as the framework for the creativity that follows. Once the pattern is created, it is possible to create a secondary process where the materials and construction techniques are decided. Separating these phases allowed her to broaden her creative exploration and gave clarity to the design process.

Additionally, Kiilunen intended to avoid conducting external visual research. Instead, researching different methods on how to experiment with patterns took place. This minimalistic approach served well as a starting point because it centred the focus on garment construction and pattern making. The flow of Kiilunen’s method is iterative, guided by the examination of the garment and its components from different perspectives at every developmental stage.

– For me, fashion design is an iterative hands-on process. By focusing on patterns and making methods, rather than external visual research, I was able to delve deeper into the garment construction.

Whilst making the garments, the tactile sensation guided the process, emphasising the importance of how each step feels for the hands. By designing each step to feel good to execute, whether it was the right choice of materials or the way of working, she ensured a sustainable and enjoyable making process for herself.

Contact information:

Sini-Pilvi Kiilunen

sinipilvi@icloud.com

@kiilunen.design